Bambu P1S 3d Printer: Changing HotEnds - Which is best?

In this video, I show how to change out the complete hot end assembly on your Bambu Labs P1S (Don't worry, it's easy!). There's a couple of things to think about when changing out the hotend assembly: 1. Whether you want to stay at the same size (.4mm is stock) or go to a larger or smaller hotend? 2. Do you go with a complete Hotend assembly or just the hotend itself? For #2, you definitely want to spring for the complete hotend assembly. It's SOOOO much easier than trying to move all the cables/thermisters/sleeves and such over to an incomplete hotend! For #1, there's pros and cons. In this video I try to share my impressions after using the .6mm nozzle for a little over a month. I've been running the larger .6mm hardened nozzle on my P1S for the last month. This was mostly due to the fact that Bambu was out of the .4mm hotend for a while and I really wanted to get back up printing quickly. But it was useful because I was always curious what kind of impact the larger nozzle would make on my 3d prints from both a print time and quality perspective. Interestingly, it didn't make as much of a time difference as I thought. Quality was still also quite good but I did miss the buttery smooth finish that the .4mm nozzle often produced on my functional prints. The good news if you're also curious, you can immediately see what type of impact a larger nozzle would have your specific prints right from Bambu Labs Studio without even having to order a nozzle! Just go to your printer setting and click the checkbox next to the nozzle profile that you want to compare. Load up your favorite model and slice it with the .4mm nozzle first and then compare with the .6mm nozzle. You'll quickly see the different in print times. Spoiler alert...not that much! The one major advantage the larger nozzle does give you is that your walls and tops/bottoms are going to be stronger/thicker due to the bigger nozzle and layers. This might mean you can get away with less wall loops than you normally would. That alone can speed up your print time significantly. (i.e. if you normally would do 4 wall loops, with the .6mm you might be able to just do 2). Beyond that, the quality is still quite good and acceptable with the .6mm nozzle but not quite that almost seamless look that the .4mm nozzle can sometimes leave (honestly I'm still impressed even after an entire year of printing with the P1S). As always, your mileage may vary but I know this was one of those questions that was on my mind from the very start. I finally took the time to test it out so wanted to share results with all of you. Complete Hotends for the Bambu P1S: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-hotend-p1-series?srsltid=AfmBOoqDPtS6IM5_uci7BIZ-KpzdcHb7jea04LAYY_gs4HxIQ0MorUG4 - *Make sure you select "complete assembly"! Best Filament I've found so far! https://amzn.to/4hf4TjB - Overture PLA - Hands down the easiest PLA to print on the P1S (IMO) https://amzn.to/4abHOfz - Elegoo PETG Filament / I've used and had great success with their PETG filament. Switching Supplies I've used: https://amzn.to/44hmlyG - 48v /20.8a 1200w Power Supply (2x = 1440w) https://amzn.to/4de47lV - 60v / 20a 1200w Power supply (2x = 1600w) https://amzn.to/3xWzql6 - 80v / 18a 1500w Power Supply (1270w) Most Powerful, beginner friendly home solar system available: Delta Pro Ultra - https://amzn.to/4aQ66v5 Best Prices and Warranties on Ecoflow Refurb Units; *As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase https://ebay.us/BGBKvt - Ecoflow Delta Pro https://ebay.us/WFhdZK -Ecoflow Delta Pro Extra Battery https://ebay.us/rvuREO - Ecoflow Delta Max (2kw) https://ebay.us/6TytUz - Ecoflow River 2 Max Frequently Used Battery Adapters https://amzn.to/3r46UKY - Makita-to-Ridgid Adapter https://amzn.to/3pmZMJ2 - Makita-to-Milkwaukee Adapter https://amzn.to/43PdWlb - Makita-to-Dewalt Adapter https://amzn.to/43Z6bZX - Makita-to-Ryobi Adapter