Chair Build

This video is about a modified Adirondack style chair. The seat is 2” higher than normal at the back making it easier to get up and down. The arms are raised giving additional support to your arms and shoulders. The back and the seat are both contoured to fit. This video is about the assembly of this chair. If you have bought the kit this video will so how I put it together. Let me start by identifying the parts. I start with all the pieces cut and sanded. Seat and Back Leg Support Front skirt Front Legs Back Upright brace Top Back support Bottom Back support contoured seat slat R L Arms seat slats The arm support Back Slats I start with the 2 largest pieces that form the base of the seat and back legs. I then place the front skirt flush with the ends and top of the Seat and Back Leg Support. Making sure to check for square, the next step is to attach Bottom Back Support. With the first seat slat slightly over hanging the front skirt, drill holes for both the front skirt and the seat support. The rest of the seat slats will only have 1 hole on each side. Space seat slats with 1/2 inch spacer. Do not over tighten the screw because the ends are easily broken. Attach the first 6 slats only. Next Raise the front of the chair up to 15”with blocks. On the front leg make a 15” mark from the bottom. Place a screw through the leg into the seat support, not the front skirt. Do both front legs and place a total of 5 screws per side. The Back Upright brace goes with the angle up and long point to the front of the chair. Next screw the Top Back support to the Back upright brace. With the back supports standing the slope of the Top Back support is toward the back. (think rain draining away from the seat. The next step is a little tricky. I built a jig in my shop to make it easier. You can also do it with clamps or laying on the side. The correct position is Back Upright brace bottom is flush with Seat and back leg support. it is also tight against the Bottom Back support. Also I measure from the front seat to the top back support 31”. It is more important that they be the same on both right and left. Then put a total of 4 screws to each side. The arm placement is easiest if you let it hangover the same on the front and then measure for 3/4” hangover to the seat side. The back of the arm should be flush and the same distance from the top of the top back support. The arm support fits tight against the bottom of the arm and the side of front leg. The 7 back slats come in pairs of 3 different lengths and the longest is a single. Mark a center point on the top and bottom back supports. Flush with the bottom of the Bottom Back support When you have all the back slats attached the remaining seat slats can be attached. Then before I apply the finish I grind off any screws that are sticking through. Then I run the orbital sander over the whole thing and then it is ready for the finish paint. I hope this made your build easier.