DIY Low Back Stools | Maker Update!

***For more behind-the-scenes content and to support the channel: https://www.patreon.com/hwdesigns/ *** The last step to upgrading the dinging bar top to a more functional and better looking breakfast bar was updating the seats. I whipped up these low back stools to match the species and finish of the breakfast bar build, and got to test out my steam chamber as well! To support "the show:" - Like - Subscribe - "Ring the Bell" - Follow me: https://www.instagram.com/honestworkdesigns Music Credits: Weather Any Storm Cody Francis https://player.epidemicsound.com/ Simon Says Smile Cody Francis https://player.epidemicsound.com/ Even if the sky is falling down Cody Francis https://player.epidemicsound.com/ One Part of Everything Roy Williams https://player.epidemicsound.com/ **Transcript of Voiceover How to make, or how I made, these low back stools. Let’s get into it As I mentioned in my modular breakfast bar edit, I have done a pretty good job of depleting my lumber budget recently, so to kick these off, I started with some pine 2x4’s from lowes. Cutting them down to a little longer than the final 15 ¾” width of the seats. Then, jointing and planing them to get them square After that, I laminated 5 of the squared pieces together per seat. Making sure to alternate the grain pattern for better stability Once the glue cured, I tidied up the seams before taking them to the table saw to cut them down to 15 ¾” x 15 ¾” Then, I measured and marked the center point on each After that, i measured mirroring distances from the corners on parallel sides, and used a straight edge to connect the opposing points to create a kind of “spoke wheel” that would outline where I would cut the mortises for the stool back spindles. Then I used a compass to outline the rounded back of the stool seat I also marked the latitudes for where I would sink the leg motortises as well. And circled the back of the seat one more time with the compass to mark ¾” away from the out edge to make a limiting guide when it comes time to carve grooves in the seats Then using a jig and angle guide, I cut 1” mortises at 5 degrees into the stool seats for the legs No longer in need of the straight edge to anchor the mortising jig, I used the bandsaw to cut the rough shape of the final stools With the seats roughed out, I turned to steam bending the stool backs I started by cutting many 5 mm strips of ¾” thick pine Then, using the steam chamber I created in another episode, let those lamination piece pieces cook for a few hours at around 200 degrees After their shvitz, I bent the laminate pieces around an MDF form. Using clamps and straps to hold them in place Letting them cool and dry over night, the next day, I glued the stacked pieces together, and reapplied the form while the glue cured. Once dry, I used a 6” scrap as a guide, and marked the edge cuts of the backs Then, trimmed them down with the crosscut sled And sanded away any roughness or squeeze out. With the seat and back components in good, shape, I could turn to cutting the mirroring mortises for the back spindles. I aligned the back and used the spoke shape to guide my marks. Then, with a half in forstner bit, I cut the minorities in both the seats and the backs. Before turning to the legs, pun a little intended, I gave the bottoms of the seats a finishing level sand down. Now time for the legs, I started by laminating two 22” squared pieces to create the turning blanks Then, with the table saw, cut them down to about 1.5 x 1.5” blanks After that, i found center for each side of each blank Then, it was time to turn I started by rounding over the sharp edges near the top of the leg, then marked 1.5” down from the top, and cut away a 1” tenon from the shoulder up. After that, I turned a simple slightly tapered leg. With the legs turned, i cut a cross hatch through each tenon to allow room for a spline Then, 7.5” from the shoulder of the leg, I cut a half in mortise that would house a stretcher, adding rigidity to the base After cutting the half in dowels down to size, I used a half inch rounded nose bit and the trim router to cut a recess for the cross stretcher. Then, used a high grit sand paper to add a little chamfer to each end of the cross stretcher for a more tidy finished product Time for assembly! With the legs in place, I cut away the excess tenon and spline, and used the angle grinder to carve the curvature of the seat Then, I glued the cross stretchers into place With cured glue, I added a ¼” oak pin to each connection point to secure them into place. With the base joints structurally done, I got to work cutting the legs so the stool would sit level. Then, gave it a finishing level sand down and rounded over the edges, including the back edges, before assembling the backs to the stools. I again used 1/4” oak pins to secure the joints.