Little Wing, 5.13, Squamish, BC
Filmed and Edited by Tempei Takeuchi @tempeiphotography Little Wing is the story of a first ascent high on the Stawamus Chief in Squamish BC. It goes at 5.13c (pitch 1) and 5.13a (pitch 2). My love for new routing is as strong as it has ever been and this was a major feature that I always wondered if I could do. I started establishing new routes up on this wall about 15 years ago, and to me, this was the last undone line, the final piece to the puzzle. It feels nice to have closure on it:) I'm grateful for such an incredible line and all the wonderful friends who came up with me, it's been such good fun. I hope you enjoy Tempei's short film here, and if you do, please share the link with a friend or take a moment to let him know. Be sure to subscribe to Tempei's mountain adventures as well on his instagram and Youtube accounts, both are at @tempeiphotography If you want any beta on the climb, feel free to ask. As of right now, it hasn't been repeated, but I hope it won't be for very long. If someone wants to climb it entirely on gear, and remove the bolts, I would challenge them to never use the bolts in the first place, instead of using them only to pink-point the climb but then removing them after a send. I first tried the climb on gear many years ago, and opted to place bolts for the best, safest, and most enjoyable experience for both the leader AND the follower. There are blank sections, blind sections, and sharp corners to avoid. There are plenty of great gear climbs in the world, and plenty of great bolted climbs too. I'm happy to have the conversation with anyone who goes out there and repeats this climb in either style. Big thanks to my family and sponsors; Edelrid Climbing Equipment @edelrid and Patagonia @patagonia Much Love.
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