The Beast

I have belayed a lot of comp routes over the last decade+ but sometimes a jewel or a beast emerges; a route that emotionally and physically challenges both athlete and belayer. On this occasion, D8 Championship, HB Wes told me the night before that he had my route (U20/19/17 M/O). My first thought was every fall except a top will hit the wall. My job was to keep them off holds, volumes, the rope, and the neighboring route. I quickly went from why are you doing this to me? to thank you for this challenge! The next morning he asked if I watched the previews. I said no but I studied it from this photo. I got to work it with @andycondah who slayed! I have a video of my hardest belay on this gem: because of the neighboring U13 TR and starting in a corner we offered initial approach on the left (likely cross-body clip but it is the safest for all). A couple of athletes wanted a right start. Athlete purgative, but exponentially more difficult for everyone. I felt really skilled and focus, the training sustains. Thank you Blake, Alyx, and the @goatclimbinggym crew! It brings me so much joy for routesetters to challenge athletes and themselves and know we can support it. Just look at that top! And, yes, a run/jump start for most. Lots of low big slack falls to weird angles. It ruled. I saw a vertical Z-clip on this route! @usabelay